A Walk in Greece

I walked past the fountain three times without realizing it, once even stopping to study the delicate stone right in front of me. She was tucked quietly in a corner surrounded by noise, and my brusque gazes didn’t begin to dream that she held any more significance than a simple violet growing quietly amid rocks.

Rimondi Fountain, they call it. Megali Vryssi: Fountain of Lions. And like an American, I looked in every direction for gargantuan felines, maned and fiercely commanding in a pool the size of a small lake — because that’s how Americans think.

And so of course I had to laugh when I finally saw the eggshell wall carved lightly with a gentle hand during my … wait for it … fourth pass with blind tourist’s eyes. A Venetian sculpture on a wall of Arabic, held erect by Corinthian pillars — an arranged marriage of artists.

I sat in the square to try and know her a bit, and simultaneously watched the tourists’ bulbs explode again and again and again, posing with smiles before this tiny giant of silent survival.

I learned a mountain-full that day.

Note: This 17th century (1629) (300 years before my mother’s birth) was named for Venetian Rector Antonio Rimondi. Also called Mehali Vryssi, the fountains spout from four lions’ heads into a marble basin, making it a virtual time capsule of the city’s history over the last 2,000 years.

The pillars are Corinthian; the lion heads are Venetian; and the back wall is a Turkish restoration. In 1930, the overhead vault was torn down to accommodate motorized vehicles.

Sigh.

6 thoughts on “A Walk in Greece

  1. This is the nice things with the islands around the Mediterranean, you see traces from so many different cultures in one place. Sardinia sometimes reminds me much more of Spain, especially Catalunya, since the citys and food have so much influence from other parts! And on Corfu in Greece there’s even a lot of British influences 😉

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  2. Pam, as you point out, sights like this take some mindfulness and knowledge of history to appreciate. The Venetians were no slouches when it came to art and architecture, so I’m sure you saw some interesting details as you relaxed by the fountain. ~James

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